Text and photos by Dominique Marché
Alava is a region in Spain that I’ve always wanted to visit. To fully experience the warmth of the Basque Country, a city break in the green capital of Euskadi is a must.
So, welcome to Alava… Together, we will explore the region’s oenological, gastronomic, and historical treasures. This is a place where history and the sweetness of life intertwine. Vitoria-Gasteiz, the capital of Alava, was named “European Green Capital” in 2012. The city’s wide, tree-lined streets and numerous parks offer its residents a true green zone, giving Vitoria a unique quality of life. As you walk through these green spaces, curiosity will be your guide. The parks and gardens of Vitoria are home to nearly 200 sculptures and works of art by over 60 renowned Basque artists, such as Eduardo Chillida, Néstor Basterretxea, and Jorge Oteiza. This experience is family-friendly, with many of the works designed for children to climb on, enter, or blend with nature. Some of the sculptures are monumental, making the exploration especially delightful—who hasn’t dreamed of climbing on a monument in a park without being scolded?
The gastronomy of Alava is a must-try, and I have a few excellent recommendations for you. In Vitoria, you can’t miss “KEA,” a fantastic blend of wine bar and gourmet restaurant. At aperitif time, the warm atmosphere is complemented by a beautiful selection of Alavesa wines, with plenty of discoveries to be made. And what better way to discover them than from the chef’s table? Pintxos, tapas, and meats grilled over an open brazier make the perfect accompaniment to a selection of wines. My personal favorites are “Ad Libitum,” a white wine with notes of white flowers, and “Corriente,” a red from the Lanzaga bodega, which pairs beautifully with meat.
For a more traditional experience, visit Matxete, where you’ll find two great Rioja wines: the white “Luis Cañas” and the red “Lindes de Remelluri.” If you’re looking for a livelier atmosphere, “Bode” is the ideal place to mingle with the Friday evening crowd, enjoy a few drinks, and savor some tapas—guaranteed fun.
After this gastronomic interlude, head to the city center, where you’ll be surprised by its “street art” and a series of monumental murals. Stroll through the alleys of the old town and let yourself be drawn into its historic heart. The remarkable preservation of its buildings is a true highlight. You can admire the 12th-century ramparts, the Escoriaza-Esquivel and Montehermoso palaces, and the Santa María Cathedral, which is worth visiting to learn about its unique and innovative renovation.
During your visit, you’ll also encounter many pilgrims, as the city is part of the Camino de Santiago route. Simply look at the ground to spot scallop shells engraved in the pavement, marking the pilgrims’ way.
Take a detour to the Salinas de Añana, a salt valley recognized as a European Union cultural heritage site. Upon arrival, you’ll be struck by the panoramic view of thousands of salt production platforms. This valley has been in use for over 6,500 years. You can become a salt worker yourself and harvest salt, or relax in the hyper-saline waters of the “spa” for a unique and revitalizing experience. For a culinary treat, stop at the Palacio de Añana in the heart of the village, where chefs Jokin Loma and Belén Sandrin will treat you to an unforgettable dining experience.
Another must-visit in Alava is the Rioja Alavesa wine route, with its breathtaking fortified city of Laguardia. Fortified in the 13th century, Laguardia is a maze of vaulted cellars and boasts a religious heritage of great beauty, including the Gothic polychrome facade of the Santa María de Los Reyes Church—unmissable. The panoramic views of the vineyards from the “Puerta de Paganos” are a great opportunity to explore the Marqués de Riscal estate. Founded in 1860, the estate offers an exceptional vineyard tour, including a visit to its cellar, which holds thousands of vintage bottles dating back to the vineyard’s inception. The experience is magical, especially when tasting a 1956 vintage.
For an unforgettable stay, book a room at the hotel located within the estate. Designed by renowned architect Frank O. Gehry, creator of the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, the hotel is superb. You’ll have access to three restaurants, including the Michelin-starred “Gastronómico,” which features a menu curated by celebrated chef Francis Paniego. To unwind, treat yourself to a session at the “Spa Vinothérapie Caudalie,” where you can recharge while overlooking the vineyard.
As we near the end of our stay in Alava, I’ve only shown you a small part of what the region has to offer. There are still museums, natural parks like Izki and Gorbela, bike rides, canoe trips through the lagoons, and plenty more to explore along the Rioja Alavesa route.
Don’t hesitate any longer—come discover Alava, Vitoria-Gasteiz, and the warm, welcoming Euskadi. It’s waiting to surprise you.
