Text and photos by Dominique Marché
The AOC Saint-Joseph was established in 1956 and stretches along the Rhône River, bordered by the prestigious appellations of Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu, and Cornas. Cross the river, and you find yourself amidst the vineyards of Crozes-Hermitage.
The Saint-Joseph appellation owes its name to the Jesuit monks of Tournon, and a walk along its steep slopes reveals the challenging nature of cultivating these vines. The granite soils, with their “challeys,” impart a unique character, while the Syrah, Roussanne, and Marsanne grape varieties offer an expansive aromatic palette and remarkable finesse.
For this article, I had the pleasure of three distinctive appointments: a visit to the vineyards of the appellation, a gourmet dinner in the heart of Lyon at “Monsieur P,” and a “machon” at “La Meunière.” These three experiences offered me a multifaceted appreciation of Saint-Joseph. Let’s begin our journey.
First Stop: Maison E. Guigal – A Legacy of Excellence
Our journey began at the “castle cellar” of Maison E. Guigal, where the estate’s five properties and all the appellations are proudly represented. The tasting experience is sure to delight your palate, but the cellar’s oenologist will guide you in selecting wines tailored to your preferences. My personal favorites included “Les Vignes de l’Hospice” by E. Guigal, the exceptional cuvée from Vidal-Fleury, and the “Lieu-dit” white, renowned for its fruit-forward notes and delicate hints of white flowers.
Since its inception in 1946, the Guigal estate has been a benchmark of quality. Their cellar also features a museum showcasing the winemaking tools, works, and unique archaeological pieces discovered during the excavation of these vineyards – a truly remarkable collection.
Second Stop: Domaine Christophe Pichon – A Family Estate with a Rich History
Next, we visited the esteemed Christophe Pichon estate, a family-run property since 1962. With 12 hectares of vineyards in Saint-Joseph, the estate produces two red wines and one white. The “Palisse” cuvée stands out as it hails from the northernmost plot of the appellation, with the rare distinction of holding both Saint-Joseph and Condrieu designations. A must-try! With six appellations and 200,000 bottles produced annually, the quality of their wines speaks for itself.
Third Stop: Les Terriens – A Boutique Winery with Bold Flavors
Further along the road, we stopped at “Les Terriens” in Chavanay, where the estate produces 4,800 bottles of red wine aged in barrels for two years. Expect an aromatic profile rich in red fruits with a touch of spice. The estate also produces 1,600 bottles of white wine, aged for one year in barrel, which reflects a meticulous approach to winemaking. This is an experience not to be missed.
Fourth Stop: Cave Saint Désirat – A Grand Production with a Diverse Selection
Our final vineyard stop before heading to Lyon was at “Cave Saint Désirat” in the eponymous village. With over 416 hectares in AOP Saint Joseph and more than 350 winemakers, this impressive estate produces 8 red cuvées and 2 white ones. I was particularly impressed by three red cuvées, each offering a unique expression of the appellation’s terroir. The “Mariniers” cuvée provided a vibrant palette of red fruits, “Côte Diane” offered a more complex profile, and “Septentrio” showcased rich stewed fruit flavors with a beautiful length on the palate – a must-have for any wine cellar.
A Gourmet Dinner at “Monsieur P” in Lyon
After an enriching day of vineyard visits, we headed to Lyon for a superb dinner at “Monsieur P” in Place des Célestins. The five-course dinner featured a “food and wine” pairing with 15 cuvées from 10 renowned estates. Chef Florent Poulard prepared an exceptional meal that included:
- Marennes d’Oléron oysters with Kale & Shallot, paired with two white Saint-Joseph wines. The Domaine PJ Villa (100% Marsanne) offered a perfect balance of freshness and indulgence, while Domaine F. Villard’s blend of 45% Marsanne and 55% Roussanne provided a beautiful mineral freshness that accentuated the oysters’ iodized notes.
- Perfect egg with Cep & Lovage, paired with “Souvenirs d’André” from Domaine JF Jacouton, a wine that was the epitome of roundness, with floral notes and a subtle hint of woodiness.
- Faroe Islands salmon with pearl barley & fresh turmeric, complemented by the cuvée “Promise” from Domaine Colombet, whose balance of mineral and floral notes was stunning. Domaine Bott’s 70% Roussanne and 30% Marsanne cuvée added a light oakiness and a floral gourmet touch that paired beautifully with the salmon.
- Lamb saddle with black garlic & shiitake, a perfect match for the Saint-Joseph red “L’Olivaie” from Domaine Coursodon. This garnet-colored wine, with its nose of spiced red fruits and elegant tannins, was a revelation.
- To end the evening, we savored Prune Reine-Claude with Pecan Nuts & Dulce, paired with Domaine Jacouton’s “Sainte Epine,” a deep red wine with notes of ripe fruits and silky tannins. The white “Le Paradis Saint Pierre” from Domaine Coursodon, with its honeyed notes and mineral freshness, rounded off the meal with an unforgettable finish.
The dinner at “Monsieur P” was a beautiful showcase of both gastronomy and the exceptional quality of AOC Saint Joseph wines.
A Classic “Mâchon” at “La Meunière”
No visit to Lyon would be complete without experiencing a traditional “mâchon,” and the next morning, we headed to “La Meunière” at 11 Rue Neuve. Here, we enjoyed a hearty breakfast of pâté croûte, guinea fowl with hunter sauce, and a platter of local cheeses, all paired with 11 different Saint-Joseph wines from 17 vintages. A delightful way to spend the morning!
For the pâté croûte, my top four white wines included Domaine Boissonnet’s “Emisphère” cuvée with its finesse, honeyed and citrusy notes, Domaine du Chêne de la Famille Rouvière’s balanced oak-aged white, Domaine Blanc’s “Brayonnette” with exotic fruit flavors, and Domaine Courbis’s white offering floral and citrus notes with a surprisingly sweet finish.
With the guinea fowl and cheeses, I was captivated by three reds: “Exploration” from Cave de Tain, “La Croix des Vignes” from Domaine P. Jaboulet, and “Anaïs” from Domaine du Chêne. Each wine beautifully expressed the diversity of the appellation.
Discovering Saint-Joseph and Beyond
With more than 130 winemakers in the region, your visit to the Saint-Joseph appellation promises plenty of exciting discoveries. Along the way, you’ll also have the chance to explore other AOPs such as Condrieu, Cornas, Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, and Côte Rôtie.
Ultimately, your palate will guide you in selecting the vintages that belong in your cellar. The true essence of these wines lies in the discovery and the joy of sharing them with friends around a table, an aperitif, or during a convivial moment.
Enjoy your tasting!
