Words and photography by Karla Mrčela
@respiro_mediterraneo
The Romans surely knew what they were doing when, in the first century BC, they set out to conquer a fascinating and exceptionally rich region. Soon after, that region would be named Dalmatia. Picture a land in southern Croatia, bathed by the Adriatic Sea, blessed with a mild Mediterranean climate, and scattered with exactly 942 islands, islets, rocks, and reefs. Idyllic, isn’t it? Indeed it is, which is why Dalmatia is rightly called one of the last well-preserved oases of the Mediterranean. But the question arises: how long will we be able to keep it that way?
From the ancient Illyrian tribes, through Roman, Venetian, and later Austro-Hungarian rule, Dalmatia has always stood proudly, letting each of these cultures leave their mark, and enrich the region in the process. Today, this centuries-long blending of cultures, languages, and architecture is seen as a true blessing. For such a small region, Dalmatia is home to a fascinating number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, so it’s not uncommon that during a casual stroll or a quick shopping trip, you’ll pass through one. Or, as in Split, Croatia’s second-largest city, you might even live within the walls of one.
But even if history isn’t your thing, it’s hard to resist one of the world’s most highly indented coastlines, and some of the cleanest seas. The Croatian side of the Adriatic is famous for its crystal-clear waters and mesmerizing shades of blue, which are said to result from the many rivers that flow into it, carrying sediments and nutrients that help shape its unique color.
Dalmatia’s list of treasures is truly long, centuries-old olive trees and sun-soaked vineyards, local gastronomy that reflects the wealth of the surrounding land and sea, various legends and folk tales, but most of all, it’s the people. Stubborn, hot-headed, hardworking, humorous, and hospitable. People whose temperament has remained unchanged, despite the rapidly shifting circumstances that have shaped this region over the centuries.
This is a region full of characters, people who often resist the rapid pace of modern life, who push back against trends rather than follow them. That’s why in Dalmatia you can still encounter Grandma Marija, who for decades has been measuring people’s height and weight with old instruments in Diocletian’s Palace in Split, for just a few coins. Or the man so stubborn he refuses to end the family business, making ends meet by cleaning shoes and selling nothing but shoelaces.
These people have developed a special life philosophy, one that often divides the opinions of tourists and those observing from afar. ‘Pomalo’ is a distinctly Dalmatian approach to life, though it shares some traits with the wider Mediterranean mindset. It’s a state of mind and body where nothing is rushed and everything unfolds slowly, whether you’re sipping coffee or enjoying the sun. As idyllic as it sounds, if you plan to visit Dalmatia, you’ll need to embrace this philosophy fully to have a truly authentic experience; otherwise, the occasional slow service might leave you frustrated.
Yet troubles in paradise always exist, and lately Dalmatia has been facing more and more of them. The main trouble? As in many other places, unsustainable tourism. Take the ancient cities of Split and Dubrovnik, which are becoming overcrowded and nearly unlivable, as their infrastructure simply cannot withstand the doubling of people during the warmer months. A particular problem is cruise ships which, besides their environmental impact, literally flood the cities with visitors who stay only a few hours. All of this drives living costs sky-high, pushing locals out of historic centers and eventually out of the cities altogether. This region is turning into a “destination,” rather than a place to live. But what is Dalmatia without its people?
Even Dalmatian cuisine is suffering. It’s becoming harder and harder to find places serving authentic dishes made with fresh ingredients, even though Dalmatia is rich with them. Instead, gastronomy is adapting to global trends while neglecting its roots.
It’s as clear as day that these developments pose a grave danger to Dalmatia’s most valuable asset: its authenticity. And with that comes the question many famous tourist destinations are likely asking themselves, is a few thousand euros extra worth more than an untouched coastline, the authentic scenes that unfold like street theater, and a sense of peace? Is authenticity losing its value in today’s world? And can a model of sustainable tourism be created in which both travelers and locals truly benefit?
Dalmatia’s future depends on how these questions are answered. If tourism continues unchecked, the region risks losing the very qualities that make it unique. But if a balance can be struck, where visitors enjoy its beauty without erasing its soul, Dalmatia can remain not just a destination, but a living, breathing home for its people and for all who wish to truly experience it. Dalmatia may still be a preserved oasis, but whether it stays that way is a question only the future can answer.
