The traditional snack that shapes everyday life
Golden, ring-shaped, and generously coated with sesame seeds, koulouri in Greece and simit in Turkey are far more than simple bread. With their irresistibly crunchy crust and soft, slightly chewy interior, these humble sesame rings are among the most beloved street foods of the Eastern Mediterranean, and a daily ritual for millions.
Often referred to as the “Turkish pretzel,” the sesame ring is also widely enjoyed throughout the Balkans. In Bulgaria and North Macedonia it is known as gevrek, in Serbia as đevrek, and in the Izmir region of Turkey it takes the name gevrek, quite literally meaning “crispy.” Wherever it appears, its shape and aroma are instantly recognizable.
Early in the morning, the scent of freshly baked rings drifts through city streets. They appear piled high in bakery windows, stacked on trays at busy intersections, and carried through crowds by street vendors balancing baskets on their heads. Long before lunch, they are already disappearing just as quickly as they are made.
Whether eaten for breakfast, grabbed as a snack on the way to work or school, or enjoyed with a coffee break, koulouri is a constant companion of everyday life in Greece. It is common to see commuters holding a koulouri in one hand and a coffee in the other, simple, satisfying, and comforting.
In Turkey, simit is announced loudly by the simitçi, the street vendors whose calls echo through neighborhoods from early morning onward. The rings sell so fast that fresh supplies must be delivered continuously. A traditional Turkish breakfast, tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, cheese, and strong black tea, feels incomplete without a simit at the center of the table.
A street food with a long history
The origins of koulouri are believed to date back as far as the 6th century BC. As ancient cities expanded, they faced the challenge of feeding growing populations of workers, merchants, soldiers, pilgrims, and migrants. In Constantinople, the capital of the Byzantine Empire, street food became an essential solution, affordable, filling, and accessible to all.
The ancestor of today’s koulouri was the kollyra, a round bread originally consumed by slaves. Over time, it evolved into kouloura, and eventually koulouri, the diminutive form still used today.
Simit, meanwhile, appears to have a slightly different lineage, rooted in the Ottoman Empire from around the 12th century. Its name may derive from the Arabic samīd, meaning “refined flour,” or from simsim, the word for sesame. Flour depots in Ottoman Istanbul were known as simithane, and records from the Üsküdar district dating back to 1593 mention a ring-shaped bread called simid-i halka.
Legend has it that during Ramadan, sultans distributed simit to soldiers at sunset, marking the end of the daily fast, a gesture that turned simple bread into a symbol of nourishment and community.
From Constantinople to Thessaloniki
In Greece, koulouri is closely associated with the city of Thessaloniki. This connection dates back to the early 20th century, when Greek Orthodox refugees fleeing Constantinople brought with them their rich culinary heritage. Among these traditions was simit, soon known simply as koulouri. Its affordability, nutritional value, and satisfying taste helped it spread quickly throughout the country, becoming a breakfast staple nationwide.
Although traditionally baked as a simple ring, today’s koulouri and simit come in many variations: twisted or braided shapes, whole-grain versions, filled with cheese, tahini, or chocolate spread, topped with poppy, flax, or sunflower seeds, or even made without sesame at all. Yet despite these variations, one thing remains unchanged: the sesame ring is still made from natural ingredients, without fats or preservatives, and is shaped and baked fresh by hand every day.
Simple ingredients, powerful nutrition
The dough itself is straightforward: wheat flour, yeast, water, salt, and a touch of sugar. The true star, however, is sesame. Sesame seeds, cream-colored, brown, or black, come from one of the world’s oldest cultivated oil plants. Their fat content consists mainly of mono- and polyunsaturated fatty acids, including oleic acid and linoleic acid (an omega-6 fatty acid).
Nutritionally, sesame is a powerhouse. It is exceptionally rich in calcium, providing around 700 mg per 100 grams, and is one of the best natural sources of selenium. It also supplies magnesium (347 mg per 100 g), phosphorus, essential amino acids, B vitamins (B1, B2, B6), and vitamin E. Antioxidant compounds further contribute to its health-supporting properties.
Thanks to this impressive profile, koulouri and simit are particularly appealing to vegetarians and vegans, proof that simple street food can also be deeply nourishing. Crisp on the outside, soft on the inside, and steeped in centuries of history, koulouri and simit are more than snacks. They are edible symbols of everyday life, shared culture, and the enduring pleasure of good bread, fresh, honest, and meant to be enjoyed on the street, just as it has been for generations.
This article was first published in the TML Magazine Issue 23.
