The small Andalusian town of Ronda is one of the oldest cities in Spain. Located in the Serranía de Ronda mountains in the province of Málaga, the municipality has around 35,500 inhabitants and is one of the largest towns among the famous Pueblos Blancos, the White Villages of Andalusia.
Ronda is dramatically perched on a rocky plateau at an altitude of 723 meters and divided by the breathtaking El Tajo, a gorge more than 100 meters deep carved by the Guadalevín River. Three bridges span this natural divide, connecting the Moorish old town, La Ciudad Vieja, with the newer district, El Mercadillo. What truly sets Ronda apart, however, is its unique urban design: a labyrinth of narrow, winding streets combined with a history that stretches from prehistoric times to the present day. Artists of the 20th century, in particular, succumbed to the city’s quiet romance, leaving lasting tributes to a place that continues to inspire.
Long before recorded history, people settled in the region around Ronda. Evidence of this early presence can still be found in nearby cave paintings dating back to the Neolithic period. The city itself was founded more than 2,000 years ago as a fortified Roman settlement by the general Scipio Aemilianus (185–129 BC) under the name Arunda. Over the centuries, Ronda passed through many hands, with the Moorish period, from 711 to 1492, leaving one of the most profound marks on its identity.
During Moorish rule, the Iberian Peninsula was known as Al-Andalus. The governor Abd al-Aziz built a castle in Ronda, and the city became one of five administrative districts and an important regional capital known as Takorunna. The cultural legacy of this era remains deeply embedded in Ronda’s architecture, cuisine, and traditions.
The reconquest of Ronda by the Catholic Monarchs in 1485 marked the beginning of a significant economic and cultural transformation. Mosques were converted into churches, new squares emerged, and streets were widened. Landmark buildings such as the Palacio de Mondragón and numerous churches date from this period. A devastating earthquake in 1580 destroyed many structures, and only a few were rebuilt. While major port cities like Seville and Cádiz benefited most from the wealth of colonial expansion, Ronda struggled to maintain its importance, but never lost its distinctive character.
The 18th century proved decisive in shaping the Ronda we recognize today. Two monumental structures from this era remain defining symbols of the city: the Plaza de Toros and the Puente Nuevo.
Plaza de Toros
Ronda is widely regarded as the cradle of modern bullfighting, a tradition that remains deeply rooted in Spanish culture. While public debate around the practice has grown and calls for its prohibition are increasing, bullfights, known as corridas, are still held and continue to attract attention.
The Plaza de Toros de Ronda was designed by the architect José Martín de Aldehuela (1729–1802) on a site used for equestrian exercises as early as the 16th century. Construction began in 1783 and was completed within two years. The arena, a masterpiece of late Spanish Baroque architecture with a sober yet elegant façade, can accommodate around 6,000 spectators and is considered one of the most beautiful and best-preserved bullrings in Spain. Francisco Romero (1700–1763) is regarded as the founding father of modern bullfighting. Many of the rules and techniques he established in Ronda are still followed today.
Puente Nuevo
Another iconic structure designed by José Martín de Aldehuela is the Puente Nuevo, or “New Bridge.” It connects the old town, commonly referred to simply as La Ciudad, with El Mercadillo, the newer district. The bridge stands on the site of an earlier construction completed in 1735, which tragically collapsed just six years later, killing several people. Work on the current bridge began in 1751 and lasted more than 40 years. Featuring three monumental arches, the Puente Nuevo was completed in May 1793 and inaugurated during the Feria de Mayo, a festival that remains one of the most important events in Ronda’s annual calendar. Final works were concluded in 1802.
Orson Welles and Ernest Hemingway
Orson Welles and Ernest Hemingway, two of the most influential artists of the 20th century, shared a complex and unconventional friendship. As Welles once reflected after Hemingway’s death, they admired each other deeply while never becoming truly close. What undeniably united them was their love for Spain, and above all, for Ronda.
The two artists met in Ronda in the summer of 1937 during the dubbing of Tierra de España, a propaganda film about the Spanish Civil War written by John Dos Passos and Hemingway. At the time, both men were already celebrated figures, Hemingway redefining modern literature and Welles pushing the boundaries of cinema. Just a year later, the 22-year-old Welles would cause nationwide panic in the United States with his radio adaptation of The War of the Worlds, staged so convincingly that listeners feared an actual Martian invasion.
Hemingway chose Welles as the narrator of the film for his unmistakable voice, sonorous, velvety, and refined. Creative disagreements reportedly led to a physical altercation between the two, which ultimately ended in laughter and a shared bottle of whiskey. Mutual respect endured, even if true intimacy never developed.
On September 6, 2015, both artists were honored in Ronda with monuments erected outside the historic bullring. The two statues, each standing 2.5 meters tall, were created by sculptor Paco Sevilla Parra from a local stone known as Arroyo del Toro, ensuring that their legacy remains forever linked to the city they loved.
